Answer
Aug 15, 2023 - 08:00 AM
There are a number of factors to think about when purchasing Bezel and Gallery Strip, for example; what metal to choose, the stone size and hardness, thickness of bezel wire, how you set it and your ability.
If you're new to working with Bezel or Gallery Strip it is advised to start small, use thinner gauges as it's easier to work with and allows you to get used to the process. This is also the case if you're setting my hand using a Bezel Roller (999 AJG) or burnisher (999 CJE). If however you're hammer setting using a hammer hand piece (999 FD09), then a thicker gauge would be recommended.
What size stone are you using? This is the most important thing to think about because you need to make sure there is enough metal to keep your stone in place. You need to ensure a minimum of 1mm is available to push over the stone. We have a great guide; How to Bezel Set a Cabochon for a step-by-step tutorial. You should also consider the hardness (Moh Scale) of the stone. If the stone is soft, it is recommend to set by hand rather than hammer and use a thinner gauge -to minimise any damage. If the stone is hard then a thicker gauge is more suitable, plus this allows for heavier finishing. Don't forget about the height of your stone too, ensure there's enough metal to cover and keep in place.
When you're ready to start making, make sure to anneal your wire before forming, this will make it easier and prevent the Strip from cracking. Always remember however that this strip is very fine and will melt if heated too much. We would advise to heat from underneath using a tripod (999 AFM) or brick structure with a gauze on top (999 AFN).
At Cooksongold we offer a range of bezel and gallery strips in a variety of alloys, shapes and sizes. From Copper, Sterling Silver, Fine Silver and Gold. Why not invest in some base metal strip to practice with and when you're ready, move onto the precious metal alloys.
Take a look at our other blogs for more information;